Changing the Accessory Belts
Last Updated - October 10th, 2004
Belts squeaking, popping off, or simply broken?
Here's how to replace them.
|Top view looking down at serpentine belt.
|This is a shot of the belt being put on.
Note that the belt is to the inside of the tensioner pulley.
|Lookup up at the power steering pulley from
|Looking up and pulleys from below.
|Offset wrench used to put belt on. Note
how the belt is pre-set on the inside of the tensioner pulley.
|This is the A/C belt. The tensioner pulley
is raised and lowered by the top bolt head.
|Here's a shot of the tensioner pulley.
|Here's a shot of the A/C belt pulleys from below.
This Cell Intentionally Left Blank
|This is a diagram of all of the belt driven
accessories taken from the 1992 Chrysler FSM.
|This is a diagram of the belt routing taken from
the 1992 Chrysler FSM.
|This is the A/C belt diagram taken from the 1992
A/C Belt Removal/Installation
1. To remove the A/C belt, first loosen the bolt that goes
through the center of the tensioner pulley.
2. Once the pulley is loose, rotate the tensioner bolt (facing
upward behind tensioner pulley) counter-clockwise to lower the pulley
until you can get the belt off. If you attempt this without first
loosening the pulley, it won't work. Also, this is a great place
to use an air ratchet with a long extension.
3. If you are also replacing the serpentine belt, do that
now. Otherwise continue and put the new belt on.
4. Put the new belt on where the old one was.
5. Turn the tensioner screw clockwise until the belt is
reasonably firm. He-Man tight is not required here.
6. Tighten the bolt that goes through the tensioner pulley.
7. Start the car, drive it around, and try the A/C. If the
belt squeals, you need to adjust the tension. Otherwise, it's
Serpentine Belt Removal/Installation
1. Remove the A/C Belt (via procedure above).
2. Using a belt tensioner tool or a 15mm offset box end
wrench, rotate the tensioner pulley forward and slip the belt off.
An offset box end wrench works fine but is difficult to get in
there. It's also difficult to get back out. You'll need to
play with it a little to figure out how to maneuver it, but it does
work. The belt can be slipped off to the inside of the tensioner
pulley and also off the idler once you pull the wrench forward.
3. Remove the belt and wrench completely.
4. Put a new belt on according to the routing diagram.
There are a number of ways that it looks like this belt could go but
only two known ways that you may think were successful. To save
yourself some frustration, look at the diagram. Mike once
discovered that you can put the belt over the idler pulley as opposed
to under it... It looks like it would work but screeches like
The best way to put the belt on is to lower it first so that you can
get it around the power steering pulley. Bring it up over the
alternator, and down under the crank pulley. With one hand taking
up the slack, reach through and pull up the belt between the crank and
the power steering pulley. Pull it over the tensioner and let it
rest inside the pulley. Get your wrench in place pull forward,
and then fix the way the belt sits on the idler and tensioner
pulleys. Piece of cake.
The crank and power steering pulleys are more difficult to slip a tight
belt over because they have a big outer lip. That's why you want
to put the belt over those two first.
5. Put the A/C belt back on.
Tools & Supplies:
- 15mm offset box end wrench or serpentine belt tool
- 3/8" or 1/2" drive ratchet with extensions
- Air ratchet - optional
- New Belts
- You do not need to use any kind of belt dressing on these belts
and the FSM specifically says not to.
- If you've taken the A/C tensioner bracket & pulley all the
way off, there is a very thick washer that sits behind the tensioner
pulley. If that waser is lost, the pulley will not turn and
you'll burn up your A/C belt shortly after starting the engine.
You'll see smoke and smell it burning very quickly.
- The belt numbers for underdrive pulleys are as follows: